Before you read this: Do NOT be afraid, be aware and empowered to make whatever decisions you’d like to about your health, with whatever information is available. There are a lot of things that we DO know, and a lot that we do NOT know. However, with so many odds stacked against us, we need to be informed about what we are potentially dealing with.

What we CAN control is what we learn, and what we do with the information that we learn.

Everyone should be able to enjoy the beauty and versatility of hair without compromising their health. With that being said, keep reading!

Listen! I am the QUEEN of either a 40 inch box braid set or a buss down! PERIOD! Whether it’s bundles or braids, I stay wit it. But what I recently found out?? Naw, y’all gotta know this, too. I haven’t written a blog post in a LONG time but I had to dust off the shelves and cook.

In the vibrant world of beauty and self-expression, synthetic hair products have become a staple for many, especially within the Black community. From stunning braids to luxurious wigs, these products allow for creativity and versatility. However, as we embrace versatility of being able to rock so many amazing styles, it's crucial to be aware of the potential health risks lurking in these beloved items.

There is much more research to be done. In fact, there are only a few studies that have looked into this. Here’s what we know so far, and what we don’t know.

Let me cook.

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What Are Synthetic Hair Products Made Of?

Synthetic hair is made from special types of plastic fibers. These fibers can look and feel like real hair, but they are actually made from manufactured chemical materials... basically plastic. Some common materials used in synthetic hair include modacrylic, vinyl chloride, and acrylonitrile. Many of the fibers that are used are put into a copolymer that is largely stable unless disrupted by a process… and what we know right now is that heat is a culprit.

The synthetic hair is also treated with additional chemicals to make it useable, tangle free, shiny, etc. And what we may learn in the coming months and years is that while these materials help create beautiful hairstyles, they may also be harmful to our health, even if they’re simply just worn for long periods of time. And, if you’re a Black woman, you know that synthetic braiding hair has been a staple in our community for decades and has served as a protective style for many of us who want to tuck away our delicate hair for a while or just change up our style.

I made an Instagram post about this a few days before writing this.

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A post shared by Dr. Raven the Science Maven (@raventhesciencemaven)

How is synthetic hair made? Check out this video. The narrator saying “a few simple ingredients” is sending me because if people knew about the risks it wouldn’t be so “simple”. And this is why y’all shouldn’t trust everything with a caption and big font, for real.

Are y’all taking notes? Still with me? If you have questions, just hit me up on socials, OK?

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What Are the Potential Hazards?

Synthetic hair products can emit volatile organic compounds (VOCs) when heated. A study published in the Journal of Occupational and Environmental Hygiene found that these VOCs can be toxic and may contribute to respiratory issues and other health problems. The heating process, often used during styling, can exacerbate the release of these harmful compounds, further increasing the risk for users. I talk about this particular study in this video:

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A post shared by Dr. Raven the Science Maven (@raventhesciencemaven)

The use of synthetic hair products is deeply rooted in cultural practices and personal expression. For many Black women, hair braiding and styling are not just beauty practices; they are cultural traditions that carry deep significance. However, the potential health risks associated with these products cannot be ignored. In Nigeria, for instance, a study highlighted the potential hazards linked to wearing synthetic hair, including allergic reactions and long-term health effects.

But there is so much that we don’t know. Keep reading.

What DON’T We Know About Synthetic Braiding Hair

Y’all are going to have a LOT of questions. Some of the questions that I’ve gotten include “What if I wash the hair in apple cider vinegar??”

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And unfortunately, we do NOT have the answers RIGHT NOW. There are Black women scientists who are working hard to get us answers and publish their data. I emphasize Black women because that context is important, but let’s not act like this isn’t an EVERYBODY ISSUE. A lot of people are using synthetic hair. Not just Black women. We are probably the largest demographic using it. We are just at the beginning of learning about the potential risks of synthetic hair products, there is still much more to uncover. Additional research is essential to fully understand the long-term effects of the chemicals used in these products and how they impact our health.

Currently, these are some research questions that need to be pursued:

Include more detailed experiments in controlled test chambers or real homes and salons.
Use modeling studies that show important parts of indoor usage for heated synthetic hair.

Key Components to Model

Rooms where synthetic hair is used, like homes and hair salons.
Combustion times and how close they are to where people breathe.
Exposure levels for both children and adults when not in use.

Additional Recommendations

Create models to measure:
- Exposure impact and VOC emissions from synthetic hair.
- Different hairstyles, including:
  - Heating the synthetic hair
  - Singeing the synthetic hair
  - Combing and brushing the synthetic hair
  - Dipping the synthetic hair in hot water
  - Washing the synthetic hair
  - Blow drying the synthetic hair
  - Wearing the synthetic hair for days, weeks, or months.

Scientists need to conduct studies that explore different aspects, such as how these chemicals interact with our bodies over time and whether certain individuals are more vulnerable to their effects. Research can help identify safer alternatives and lead to better regulations within the beauty industry. By investing in more studies, consumers can be given opportunities to use the knowledge to make informed choices and advocate for healthier beauty products.

I would like to see it.

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Human Hair May Be a Risk.

I am literally writing this while rocking a 40 inch cambodian raw buss down and I’m GAGGED because my homegirl who researches this says that we may also be at risk with some brands of the human hair. So, we also should NOT assume that it is a safer alternative just because it is not made out of plastic. This is hard for me to wrap my head around (no pun intended) because how could it be that human hair could release chemicals like plastic could?? I am waiting for her to publish this because I want to read the study so that I can interpret the data and understand. This shit has me gagged for real.

Okay, so what now?

That is entirely up to you. Dr. Elissia Franklin, one of my homegirls (the one I mentioned above) is a chemist and she just wrapped up a study that will give us a more complete view of the risks that we are dealing with in using synthetic hair. As SOON as that data is released, I WILL give y’all an update.

But chile, let me tell you what I am doing. And this is MY PERSONAL DECISION. You will NOT see me in another buss down knotless box braid set until I can confirm that I am not taking a health risk in doing so. Hell naw. Fuck ALL that.

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But, Dr. Raven, aren’t there risks in everything that we do? Yes chile but this ain’t passing my vibe check so I personally am not going to be using synthetic braiding hair, or wearing synthetic wigs, or any of that. Y’all ain’t finna get me! And that’s my personal decision.

Sometimes it feels exhausting, seems like every day we have a new thing that we gotta advocate for, stand up for, etc. Girl, I am fucking tired, too. But here are things we can do:

ADVOCATE for MORE RESEARCH as I outlined above.
- One way to do this is to write to professional organizations. Here are some professional organizations that have the reach to scientists that can look into this. Tell them that you are a concerned consumer and highlight the very few studies that look into the potential exposure to toxic chemicals in synthetic braiding hair:
ADVOCATE for MORE REGULATIONS to protect us from potentially harmful beauty products
- Write to your lawmakers, local and national, to draw their attention to this potential issue.
Try ALTERNATIVE types of braiding hair. Some of this shit is expensive as hell but here are some links for some plant-based and/or non-toxic braiding hair alternatives if you have coins like that. I personally don’t have the budget to afford the cost of buying several packs of this hair ON TOP OF paying for the braider to do the style. You could easily get into several hundred dollars. But, plant-based braiding hair MIGHT be a step in the right direction, but we need the data to confirm that this is a safer alternative:
- NOURIE (patent-pending)
- Latched and Hooked - they advertise themselves as “non-toxic” but again, I do not have the data to back this up.
- REBUNDLE - plant based synthetic braiding hair.

NOTE: I am NOT the leading authority in this field. I am a molecular biologist, and the field that researches what chemicals are in materials like this is not my field or area of expertise, so I am learning right along with you. I am writing this from the perspective of a concerned consumer of synthetic hair who has scientific degrees and tangential knowledge of this. I will share what I learn as I receive the information and post updates in my blog.

However, as a molecular biologist, I am highly concerned with how the molecules that come from the synthetic hair, and the chemicals that the synthetic hair is treated with INTERACT with HUMAN molecules and if they cause disease or impact our functioning in any capacity. That part IS in my field. I am very concerned and eager to see this research done. Shit, I would do the research my damn self but in order for ME to do the research, we need the preliminary information from the chemists so we know what chemicals to look at. I urge researchers to focus their efforts on understanding the impacts that the chemical composition of one of the most utilized hair styling tools in the Black community has on its users.